8 Different Types of Grafting | Top Grafting Methods

Do you know about all the Different Types of Grafting? Don’t worry! With our guide, you’ll become an expert on the Top Grafting Methods!

Have you ever wished you could combine the best parts of two different plants? Well, with grafting, you can! This guide will teach you all about the various types of grafting with pictures, which are basically ways to attach parts of one plant to another.

Different grafting methods exist for different situations, so whether you’re a gardening newbie or a pro, you’ll find something here to help you create your own grafted plants!

What is Grafting?

In horticulture, grafting is a technique for creating a composite plant by uniting tissues from two separate plants. This process essentially allows the desired characteristics of one plant, known as the scion, to be established on the root system of another plant, called the rootstock.

Didn’t get that? Let us explain it in simple terms. Grafting involves taking a piece of one plant, called a scion, and attaching it to another plant, called a rootstock. The scion then grows on the rootstock, so you get two plants in one! This lets you combine the best features of different plants. For instance, you can use a disease-resistant rootstock with a fruit-bearing scion to grow a strong and tasty plant.

But there’s not just one way to graft! Keep reading to explore the types of grafting methods, each perfect for specific situations.

Different Types of Grafting

1. Side Veneer Grafting

Side veneer grafting is a technique for propagating plants by attaching a desired variety (called a scion) to a rootstock plant. Think of it as adding a new branch to an existing tree. It’s a good option for woody plants, especially fruit trees like apples, pears, peaches, and some ornamental trees. It’s also done on conifers. The rootstock is grown in containers in the season before the grafting. After that, it is kept in the greenhouse for a couple of days to stimulate new root formation. The plant is deprived of water during this period.

Choose a healthy rootstock that’s about pencil thickness and a scion (the new branch) that’s roughly the same diameter as the rootstock, with 2-3 buds. On the rootstock, make a shallow, angled cut about an inch long on the side. Make a matching angled cut on the bottom of the scion so the two pieces fit together like puzzle pieces. Carefully push the scion into the cut on the rootstock, making sure the cambium layers (the green, moist areas under the bark) line up as closely as possible. Wrap grafting tape firmly around the graft union (where the two cuts meet) to hold everything in place.

You can also apply grafting compound for additional protection. Once grafted, keep the plant in a warm, humid environment until the new growth appears, which can take several weeks.

2. Bark Grafting

Bark grafting is another type of grafting for fusing two plants, but it’s ideal for situations where the rootstock has a larger diameter compared to side veneer grafting. This method is often used to “topwork” mature trees, meaning you can change the fruiting variety on an existing tree. It is ideal for mature trees with thicker branches, changing the fruit variety on an existing tree, and for plants with complex cambium layers to match precisely, like some nut trees.

Choose a healthy branch on the rootstock tree and clear a vertical section of bark, about 2-3 inches long and slightly wider than the scion. Use a shallow cut to avoid damaging the wood underneath. You can use a mallet and knife to loosen the bark gently. Take a healthy scion with 2-3 buds, and cut a long, sloping slice along one side, similar to a wedge. Now push the scion’s wedge-shaped cut into the pocket created by the lifted bark on the rootstock. Don’t forget to secure it with grafting tape.

Keep the grafted area moist and protected from direct sunlight. Monitor the graft closely, and remove the tape or compound once the union is healed.

3. Splice Grafting

Splice grafting is well-suited for herbaceous plants like tomatoes, cucumbers, and even some ornamentals. Unlike side veneer or bark grafting, it works best on soft, green stems that are roughly the same diameter.

To perform a splice graft, precise cuts are made on both the scion and the rootstock. Ideally, the stems should be roughly the same diameter to ensure a good fit. The cut surfaces are then aligned carefully, allowing the vascular tissues, which transport water and nutrients, to come into contact. The graft is then secured with grafting clips or bands to hold everything in place while the tissues heal and fuse together.

4. Inarch Grafting

Inarch grafting is another type of grafting used. Unlike the splice grafting method, which can be done on detached stems, inarching involves growing the scion and rootstock close together before making the graft.

If a tree’s root system is compromised by disease or injury, inarching allows a healthy seedling to be grafted onto the damaged tree, essentially providing it with a new root system. The process involves planting a young seedling (rootstock) near the desired mature tree (scion source). Once both plants are established, typically in spring, when the bark slips easily, a section of bark is removed from both stems, exposing the underlying cambium tissue. These exposed surfaces are then carefully aligned and secured with grafting tape or twine. Over time, the cambium tissues fuse, allowing the vascular systems to connect and the plants to function as one.

Inarch grafting is a more time-consuming technique compared to others, but it offers a high success rate, especially for reviving damaged trees or propagating challenging plant varieties.

5. Saddle Grafting

Compared to other grafting methods, saddle grafts involve straightforward cuts. Basically, the rootstock and scion should have similar diameters for optimal contact and successful grafting. This allows the cambium layers, which are responsible for transporting nutrients and growth, to align perfectly.

The rootstock is prepared by making a V-shaped top cut resembling an inverted saddle. The scion is then cut with a matching V-shaped notch at its base. The scion’s V-notch is carefully positioned onto the rootstock’s saddle.

Saddle grafting is often performed on dormant rootstock in mid to late winter. After joining, the grafted plant should be placed under a protective environment, like a greenhouse, to promote healing and growth. These kinds of grafts are pretty common for rhododendrons.

6. Bridge Grafting

Bridge grafting is a rescue grafting type used to save trees or other woody plants that have suffered significant damage to their trunk, specifically damage that disrupts sap flow. Rodents like rabbits or mice might gnaw away at the bark, completely encircling the trunk (girdling), or there might be some accidental damage from lawnmowers, weed whackers, or other tools that can cause deep wounds that sever the vital transport systems.

Bridge grafting creates a “bridge” to bypass the damaged area and re-establish the sap flow between the plant’s healthy parts. Shoots (scions) are chosen from a healthy part of the same tree or a compatible variety. These scions will act as the “bridge.” Slits are made in the bark above and below the damaged zone. The scions are then cut with tapered ends to match the angle of the bark flaps. These prepared scions are inserted beneath the lifted bark flaps, ensuring the cambium layers (growth tissue) of the scion and the tree align.

If successful, the scions will start to grow, forming a bridge of new tissue that allows the sap to flow freely again. Over time, these branches may thicken and eventually blend seamlessly with the original trunk.

7. Cleft Grafting

This method is commonly used for fruit trees, roses, and ornamental plants. It’s a good option when two plants are compatible, like apple varieties or rose bushes. Also, when you want the fruits or flowers of the scion on a mature rootstock.

Cleft grafting is a bit complex, so it’s best to research the specific steps for the kind of plants you’re working with. But generally involves making a cleft (split) in the rootstock and inserting the prepared scion wedge into the split. The graft is then wrapped securely to promote healing. With proper care, the two parts will eventually grow together.

8. Whip and Tongue Grafting

Whip and tongue grafting is another way of grafting two plants. It’s perfect for young, actively growing plants with stems roughly the same thickness, like fruit trees or ornamentals.

First, grab a sharp, disinfected knife and make an extended, slanted cut on both the rootstock and scion stems, like slicing a potato chip. Match the cuts together and then make a small, shallow cut down the middle of each slanted surface to create little tongues. Slide these tongues together so the inner layers (cambium) touch. Finally, wrap the fused area tightly with grafting tape and seal the top cut to prevent moisture loss.

Remember, this type of grafting requires patience. Keep the grafted plant warm, humid, and with indirect sunlight. Plus, mist the leaves and check the tightness of the graft regularly.

And there you have it. Now you can graft all the plants and trees properly and have a beautiful garden. Don’t worry; you can always find grafted trees in local nurseries if you don’t want to put in much work.